Dezonnage 7800

[Potrzebie]

est il possible de rendre cette machine compatible jeux US et EUR ?


silicium :
"La plupart des jeux sont incompatibles entre PAL et NTSC. Il y a un codage des données différent (un cryptage ?). Par conséquent, la plupart des jeux NTSC ne marcheront pas en PAL, et inversement. C'est le cas de jeux comme Tower Toppler, Galaga ou Crossbow qui ont un affichage problématique."

[Carl]

Portz, il y a qlqs bidouilles ici mais pour ce que tu cherches...pas sur
http://home.t-online.de/home/O_Scholz/atari.html
carl

[Potrzebie]

merci, je vais lire ca avec attention

[rhod]

je profite du topic de François...

une question

Est-ce qu'il est possible de transformer la prise antenne d'une 2600, en une Péritel ?
Il me semble que Romuald essayait de le faire sur un micro aux infoticaires 2k4....

Merci

[Potrzebie]

prends une 7800 oui une 2600 jr (pas sur pour la jr )

[david-3]

pour la 2600, c'est sans problème, va voir sur le site du gars qui bidouille des atari portables, il explique comment récupérer le signal composite et le son (rgb faut pas réver)
http://www.classicgaming.com/vcsp/

[Carl]

je profite du topic de François...

une question

Est-ce qu'il est possible de transformer la prise antenne d'une 2600, en une Péritel ?
Il me semble que Romuald essayait de le faire sur un micro aux infoticaires 2k4....

Merci

tout est la mais en anglais...

A Simple 2600 Video Mod
I DID IT!!!! I figured out how to hack a composite video port into my 2600s.

Here's the basic jist of it.
4-Switch 2600 Composite Video Modification...

On the bottom edge of the circuit board is the chip that controls the Luma and video sync. It's labled MSM 3980 0Z66 on mine. The pins are as follows. Pin 2 - sync. Pin 5,7, and 8 - Luma.

These pins can most easily be accessed by soldering a lead to the tops of resistors R217, R215, R214, and R216. Connect all these leads to the centre tap of an RCA connector. Now you've got a Luma signal (for use with a monochrome composite monitor or a high quality colour composite monitor that accepts individual Chroma and Luma signals).

The Chroma signal can be accessed at the junction of resistor R210 and capacitor C210. There is even a convenient hole in the board for you to attach a lead at this junction. If you're using seperate Chroma and Luma signals then attach the lead to the centre tap of another RCA connector. If you're using a standard composite signal then just attach it to the same RCA connector you attached the Luma signal to.

The Audio is accessed at the junction of resistor R206 and capacitor C208. As with the chroma signal there is a handy hole already at this junction. Attach a lead and run it to a seperate centre tap on an RCA connector. now you've got an audio out to run to either the monitor's audio in or the line in on your stereo.

Connect all the sleaves of the RCA connectors to ground.

Away you go!

6-Switch 2600 Modification.

Same proceedure as the 4-Switch only you access things in different spots.

The chip in my 6-switch is labled AMI 8022 TF. It's on the bottom edge.

You'll have to open the tank-like metal box the main circuit board is in.and remove the main circuit board. This can be a little trick as it's a tight fit (at least mine was).

The pinout of the chip in this one is the same as the chip in the 4-switch. The pins can be easily accessed by solering a lead to the RIGHT side of resistors R221, R219, R218, and R220.

The Choma is accessed at the junction of capacitor C213 and resistor R214. There's a hole there to attach the lead to.

The Audio is accessed at the junction of capacitor C210 and resistor R208. There is a hole there to attach the lead to.

TIPS

Before you close the case you'll have to tweak the video signal. The colour coming off the composite video isn't quite the same as the colour coming out of an RF modulated signal. On the left hand side of the circuit board you'll see a potentiometre. Tweak it until the colour is to your liking (be careful, if it's an old machine it may be a little fragile).

I preffer to drill holes in the case and attach female RCA connectors to the case. It looks nicer and is more convienent than running RCA cables out the hole where the RF modulator cable exited the machine. I also remove this cable from the machine.

You'll find some schematics for modifications that require you to build video amplifiers for the luma and chroma signal. I find that they arn't neccessary. I'm sure that they give you an even better picture, and real videophiles might want to use one of those modifications, but for those of us that just want a nice clean picture with no RF interference, my modifications will work just fine if you combine the chroma and luma signals into a single composite output you're still going to get a far better picture than you'd ever get with an RF modulated signal. And it's suprising how clean the audio on the 2600 actually is (I used to be unable to play 'Time Pilot' and 'Centipede' on my machine because these games seemed particularily prone to RF interference).

If you don't know which end of a soldering iron to grab, get someone else to make the mod for you (a friend will probably do it for a beer or two or you can trade a cartridge with another 2600 fanatic). The modification is really very simple, however, and requires no extra parts other than 2 (or 3 if you're running seperate Chroma and Luma signals) RCA connectors, wire, and some solder.

If you have a TV/VCR with composite video input or Composite monitor then do yourself a BIG favor. Make the modification. The picture is absolutely amazing and the colours are increadably vibrant (No more squealing shortwave sound. No more pale, fuzzy video, no more RF interference).

DISCLAIMER: If you do take the plunge and make the mod and you screw it up and blow your machine, house, cat, and possibly neighbours to kingdom-come, then don't blame me. But I can vouch that the modification worked beautifully on my 6-switch and 4-switch 2600s.

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ADDENDUM: For some bizarre reason I've never been able to figure out, the modification does not work that well on the Commodore 1701 monitor. It'll work fine for some games, but others it gives the symptoms of a sync problem. It works fine on the Commodore 1702 monitor. For the most stable image, let the monitor warm up a bit before you turn the 2600 on.

Be certain to attach the sync and luma leads to the side of the resistors that come directly off the TIA chip. If you attach the leads to the wrong side of the resistor your picture will be extremely dark. The reason I attach the leads to these resistors, rather than to the pins of the chip itself is for ease and saftey. Hot soldering irons can easily damage microchips. It's also easier to attach a wire to the lead on a resistor than the tiny pins on a chip.

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source : rec.video.games.classic

carl

[benoit]

Ya la modif pour la 2600s (junior?) et la 6 switch maintenant quelqu'un ce dévoue pour voir si c'est passible sur les 4 switch sécam?

[rhod]

Merci , ya plus k

[benoit]

Hum, après autopsie d'un 4 switch, il s'avère en fait que...
... j'y comprend rien.
Au suvant!

[david-3]

Hum, après autopsie d'un 4 switch, il s'avère en fait que...
... j'y comprend rien.
Au suvant!

jette un oeil ici, il y a des photos: http://www.classicgaming.com/vcsp/Question2.htm

[benoit]

Bien j'en suis venu à me dire que lorsque nos p'tits potes d'outre atlantique parlent de VCS 4 swiths, ils parlent de la version junior ou small.
Ou alors j'ai une révison de carte mère différente (je cherchais sur une rev 8 qui vient d'une VCS sécam toute noire à 4 boutons comme on en trouve 32 par broc).