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Woodstock a écrit :J'avouerai avoir du mal à comprendre : soit les frais de port sont indiqués, et l'on bidde en connaissance de cause, soit on les demande au vendeur avant de bidder, cela me semble quelque peu évident, non ?

Ceci dit, je compatis avec Jvernet : j'ai eu le même coup avec une carte-mémoire Casio RC-2 que j'ai eu pour 1 €, persuadé que vu la taille (60x50x4mm) et le poids (16 grammes), le vendeur ne demanderait pas grand-chose... J'ai eu droit à 13.50€ de fdp : tant pis pour moi, j'aurais dû demander avant. J'ai râlé devant mon écran, et j'ai payé, c'est le jeu...

mandrake a écrit :

alainb_oisac a écrit :....Mandrake, peux-tu me faire une 20taine de disquette de jeux ou compil (voir 1er post) + un Workbench 2.1 avec CrossDOS (c'est compatible avec mon A500 ?) + la disquette d'utilitaire maison (copieur, soft fat/dos, image disquette...) ?

Ok disquettes de jeux, compilation jeux - utilitaires, la disquette de Crossdos, le Workbench 2.04, de la demo, je copie 50 disquettes sans problèmes
J'étais le roi de la compilation en tout genre à l'époque
En prime ma liste sur disquette à l'ancienne et la disquette des aventures inédites de Bibitte & Coucouille crée avec le superbe logiciel Scala

mandrake a écrit :

alainb_oisac a écrit :Alors coté troc, j'ai...

je te fais ça à titre gracieux

alainb_oisac a écrit : Coté jeux je cherche RAMBO III, ROBOCOP, DRAGONNINJA... et pourquoi pas qq démos.

Pas de problèmes

alainb_oisac a écrit :Avec un A500 il y a aucun moyen + ou - simple pour regénérer les disquettes Amiga ?

Le plus simple est d'avoir un Amiga 1200 ou 600, via un 500 voir ici :
http://obligement.free.fr/articles/tran ... _amiga.php
http://amigamuseum.emu-france.com/faq.htm

A new atari mouse (from a serial mouse) (top)

What do I need to buy?
- a 3 button serial mouse. I used a Trust-mouse, but the description can easily be adapted for other mouse types.
- a piece of 9-wire cable. This must be as flexible as possible!
- a 9 pin subD connector
- 4 47k resistors 1/8 watt
- an 74HC14 (hex schmitt-trigger)
- maybe an extra resistor (read on...)

What equipment do I need?
- a soldering iron (max. 35Watt, thin point)
- a solder sucker
- some small gauge wire
- a piece of shrink sleeve
- a hobby knife (to cut unwanted PCB tracks)
- some experience in soldering is mandatory

Part one
Before making the mouse unusable as a serial mouse, see if you can identify the following items:
- the IR-LEDs
- the photo transistors (there might be 4 of them when they are not integrated as indicated by the dotted box in the schematic).
Also, follow the trace connecting the IR-LEDs. There should be a resistor in this path. The extra resistor you need should have approximately the same value as the resistor you find here.

Part two
- start removing the components you don't need (IC, crystal). Keep the traces and holes intact and remove solder from the holes. You might want to re-use the holes.
- find some suitable spots for the power-supply (+5v + GND). These usually have the most wires connected too...
build the circuit for the IR-LEDs, buttons and connect the elco (watch the polarity!). Cut traces if you have to...
- Identify the traces from the photo-transistors that you need to connect to. When you have, put the 74HC14 on its back on the pcb and figure out how you can connect the resistors to the traces and the 74HC14. Put the resistors in place (adding shrink sleeves when you feel it's necessary). When that's done, put a piece of double-sided sticky tape on the back of the 74HC14 and stick it onto the pcb.
- connect the resistors (as shown in the schematic) and the power supply to the 74HC14 (+5 = 14, gnd = 7).
- make a visual inspection of your work. It's much easier to correct things without a few meters of cable attached.
- Connect the 9 pin subD connector to one end of the cable. Write down the colour/pin relations.
- connect the other end of the cable to the various points in the modified mouse.

Part three
- attach the mouse to your atari and power on the atari. If the power led on the atari doesn't light-up within a second, turn off your atari immediately and start looking for shorts or other problems.
- start GEM or X to see if your mouse works. There are a few major problem areas:
- none of the buttons work - very unlikely unless you made a cabling error.
- the middle button does not work - the connection between mouse connector pin 5 and joystick pin 1(??) is missing. You will have to make that yourself.
- the mouse movement is flaky - add the extra resistor by soldering it parallel to the existing resistor in the IR-LED circuit. Since the power supply has dropped (from approx. 15V to 5V), the IR-LEDs may not provide enough illumination on the photo transistors.
- one or all of the movements are reversed - exchange XA with XB or YA with YB (dependent on the reversed direction
- frob a bit with the cable throughput. Since the new cable is thicker than the original, check the functioning of the middle button with the cable below it.

A new atari mouse (from a serial mouse) (top)
What do I need to buy?
a 3 button serial mouse. I used a Trust-mouse, but the description can easily be adapted for other mouse types.
a piece of 9-wire cable. This must be as flexible as possible!
a 9 pin subD connector
4 47k resistors 1/8 watt
an 74HC14 (hex schmitt-trigger)
maybe an extra resistor (read on...)
What equipment do I need?
a soldering iron (max. 35Watt, thin point)
a solder sucker
some small gauge wire
a piece of shrink sleeve
a hobby knife (to cut unwanted PCB tracks)
some experience in soldering is mandatory
Part one
Before making the mouse unusable as a serial mouse, see if you can identify the following items:
the IR-LEDs
the photo transistors (there might be 4 of them when they are not integrated as indicated by the dotted box in the schematic).
Also, follow the trace connecting the IR-LEDs. There should be a resistor in this path. The extra resistor you need should have approximately the same value as the resistor you find here.

Part two
start removing the components you don't need (IC, crystal). Keep the traces and holes intact and remove solder from the holes. You might want to re-use the holes.
find some suitable spots for the power-supply (+5v + GND). These usually have the most wires connected too...
build the circuit for the IR-LEDs, buttons and connect the elco (watch the polarity!). Cut traces if you have to...
Identify the traces from the photo-transistors that you need to connect to. When you have, put the 74HC14 on its back on the pcb and figure out how you can connect the resistors to the traces and the 74HC14. Put the resistors in place (adding shrink sleeves when you feel it's necessary). When that's done, put a piece of double-sided sticky tape on the back of the 74HC14 and stick it onto the pcb.
connect the resistors (as shown in the schematic) and the power supply to the 74HC14 (+5 = 14, gnd = 7).
make a visual inspection of your work. It's much easier to correct things without a few meters of cable attached.
Connect the 9 pin subD connector to one end of the cable. Write down the colour/pin relations.
connect the other end of the cable to the various points in the modified mouse.
Part three
attach the mouse to your atari and power on the atari. If the power led on the atari doesn't light-up within a second, turn off your atari immediately and start looking for shorts or other problems.
start GEM or X to see if your mouse works. There are a few major problem areas:
none of the buttons work - very unlikely unless you made a cabling error.
the middle button does not work - the connection between mouse connector pin 5 and joystick pin 1(??) is missing. You will have to make that yourself.
the mouse movement is flaky - add the extra resistor by soldering it parallel to the existing resistor in the IR-LED circuit. Since the power supply has dropped (from approx. 15V to 5V), the IR-LEDs may not provide enough illumination on the photo transistors.
one or all of the movements are reversed - exchange XA with XB or YA with YB (dependent on the reversed direction
frob a bit with the cable throughput. Since the new cable is thicker than the original, check the functioning of the middle button with the cable below it.

jvernet a écrit :Cela se fait aussi depuis un PC, sous linux, il me semble.
Google est surement ton ami .